Acne develops when sebum — an oily substance that lubricates your hair and skin — and dead skin cells plug hair follicles. Bacteria can trigger inflammation and infection resulting in more severe acne.
Acne is a skin disease involving the oil glands at the base of hair follicles.
The most common spots where you might have acne are your face, forehead, chest, shoulders and upper back.
When looking for facial cleansers for acne-prone skin, there are two breakout-fighting active ingredients to consider: salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid (or BHA); and benzoyl peroxide, an anti-microbial agent that works to kill bacteria. Benjamin Marks, MD, a dermatologist at Northwestern Medicine Glenview Outpatient Center, recommends a salicylic acid face wash for one wash of the day and a benzoyl peroxide wash for the other for best results.
However, you could opt for a gentler formula without active acne-fighting ingredients, especially if you already have a potent acne treatment regimen through serums, exfoliants, or prescription topicals (like tretinoin or Accutane). Other helpful ingredients are vitamin C, an antioxidant that brightens post-acne dark spots and scars over time, and niacinamide, which works to even out skin tone and texture. Peptides and ceramides are super for protecting the skin barrier, and calming botanicals like chamomile, aloe, and green tea can soothe redness and irritation.
When it comes to texture, keep your skin type in mind. “For oily skin, I usually recommend a foaming cleanser,” board-certified dermatologist Prince Adotama, MD, assistant professor at the NYU Grossman School of Medicine, previously told SELF. “If your skin is on the dryer side, a gentle hydrating cleanser is preferred."
Medications applied topically:
Benzoyl peroxide is available as an over-the-counter product (such as Clearasil®, Stridex®, PanOxyl®) as a leave-on gel or wash. It targets surface bacteria, which often aggravates acne. Lower concentrations and wash formulations are less irritating to your skin. Irritation (dryness) is a common side effect.
Salicylic acid is available over-the-counter for acne, as a cleanser or lotion. It helps remove the top layer of damaged skin. Salicylic acid dissolves dead skin cells to prevent your hair follicles from clogging.
Azelaic acid is a natural acid found in various grains such as barley, wheat and rye. It kills microorganisms on the skin and reduces swelling.
Retinoids (vitamin A derivatives) such as Retin-A®, Tazorac®, and Differin® (which is now available without a prescription) break up blackheads and whiteheads and help to prevent clogged pores, the first signs of acne. Most patients are candidates for retinoid therapy. These medications are not spot treatments and must be used on the entire area of skin affected by acne to prevent the formation of new pimples. The most common side effect is irritation, which usually improves with moisturization and time on the medication.
Antibiotics (topical types include clindamycin and erythromycin) control surface bacteria that aggravate and often encourage the swelling of acne. Antibiotics are more effective when combined with benzoyl peroxide.
Dapzone (Aczone®) is a topical gel, which also has antibacterial properties, can be used for inflamed acne. It’s applied to the skin twice a day.
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