India is everything, and more, all at once. It's a visual explosion of bright saris, lumbering cows, marigolds and bursts of sunlight. A constant cacophony of beeping horns, high-speed Hindi and the cawing of thousands of crows. Smells - of incense, spices and, ahem, more human smells. And while Mother India, with her 1.2 billion inhabitants, can inspire, astonish and enlighten many who tread her soil, her innumerable challenges and chaotic madness can also overwhelm and exhaust unprepared first-timers. Or even put them off completely.
After living in Mumbai and travelling throughout India for seven months last year, here are my essential survival tips to ensure you don't waste a second on your first visit to this magical country. So how long for your first trip? A lifetime, if you've got one to spare. If not, a month would be ideal to make the most of each place you visit. At a stretch, you could get a taste of India's magic in two weeks. Allocate two nights at least for each place you visit and, as always, the longer you stay in a city the more you'll be able to cozy up to locals who can give you their hot insider tips. I recommend a rough itinerary encompassing accommodation and transport, leaving room for unavoidable Indian mishaps and adventurous detours. All of India simply cannot be experienced in two weeks, two months, or possibly even two years. For first timers. Stick to the north - the land of turbans, mustaches, palaces and mountains - where you're guaranteed to craft your very own Darjeeling Limited experience. If you're anxious about the sensory overload you will no doubt experience, or if you would just rather sit back and enjoy the ride, then get a guide. As for money, you'll be dealing in Indian rupees - there are about 55 rupees to each Aussie dollar. Credit cards are widely accepted, but make sure you know all your pin codes, as signing has been phased out around the country. And take advantage of the baggy clothes you'll be wearing by using a money belt without worrying about any embarrassing bulges. Intrepid, World Expeditions, Bunny Tours, Wendy Wu Tours, Thomas Cook, Cox and Kings and Cesar are all reputable operators, or you can head to the Indian Association of Tour Operators for more options. Alternatively, you can plan your own trip and enlist the help of local guides at specific monuments or for the occasional half day when you want a little extra information and insight. Make sure your vaccinations are all up to date, pack a full medical kit (include Probiotics and Travel both good for healthy gut flora, plus some general antibiotics as prescribed by your GP), and do take a truckload of hand sanitizer to keep those mitts fresh. There's an excellent oral vaccine that helps prevent traveler's diarrhea called Doral, which you can grab from your doctor a few weeks before you go. f you're getting a taxi from an airport to your hotel, organize it from the pre-paid counter inside most terminals, or risk being scammed. Trains are notoriously overcrowded and run down - they're fine for short trips and economical (a 24-hour trip halfway across the country can cost as little as $11), but not recommended for overnight travel since safety's not at a premium. Ditto for overnight sleeper coaches. A great option is to hire a car and driver, particularly if you're travelling within one state for a few days. When it comes to Indian accommodation, you can spend as little or as much as you like - from $2 to $2000 a night and beyond. Budget options are generally OK, but mid-range is where you get the best value for money, though if your budget can stretch you'll find the luxurious five-star hotels of the Indian-owned TAJ group to be world-class. The chain also has hotel brands, such as Vedanta and Gateway, offering more affordable four and three star-level rates. Boutique stays are becoming popular. In Delhi, a personal favorite is The Rose. It's in the heart of the hip AUZ KIAS village and is part art gallery, shop fabulous yet simple boutique accommodation. Think white walls, plush yet simple furnishings, tons of light and views of the adjacent rose garden, for about $80 a night. In Udaipur, another favorite is Hotel Madrid Havel which dates back 300 years and has 14 stunning boutique rooms, each with stained-glass windows, Rajasthan archways and day beds (a deluxe room is about $60 a night). There's also a rooftop terrace restaurant that's perfect for lake-view dining. Rajasthan is where it's at for colorful embroidered textiles, as well as miniature paintings, pa pier mach puppets and embroidered leather shoes (Ganesh Emporium in Udaipur is a textiles and antique jewelry mecca; more than 20 rooms overflow with treasures sourced from around the country). To buy precious and semi-precious gemstones, head to the "pink city" of Jaipur, where gorgeous blue-glazed pottery is also made. Marble wares inspired by the Taj Mahal, some of them exquisitely detailed and inlaid with semi-precious stones, can be sourced in Agra, while Varanasi is a popular place to pick up silk and saris. Happy Journey.
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