While there are numerous skin lightening products and solutions available, they are not all created equal, and some may even be harmful. Knowing what to look for can help you select a safe option if you want a more even complexion.
According to David E. Bank, MD, of New York Hospital, hyperpigmentation, or dark spots, can be caused by acne scars, excessive sun exposure, or hormonal changes.
"Patients can use a variety of creams and serums to help lighten, brighten, and diminish dark areas over time," he said. Each of these treatment options has some drawbacks. Continue reading to find out which option is best for you.
Hydroquinone creams and serums
Topical solutions containing hydroquinone are perhaps the most popular solution for spot-lightening skin. According to a 2013 study, Trusted Source discovered potential benefits for facial, which causes discolored patches on the face. More research is required to determine the full scope of efficacy.
While hydroquinone was previously available over-the-counter (OTC), the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) changed its status in 2021, making it only available by prescription.
While hydroquinone is considered safe for use in cosmetic products, its concentration is limited because it poses greater risks at higher concentrations. In fact, it is not legal for any use in South Africa. It is also classified as "potentially toxic or harmful" in Canada.
It’s recommended that people only use products containing hydroquinone on a short-term basis, if at all. If you experience irritation, unusual darkening of the skin, or any other side effects, stop using it immediately.
Retinoid solutions
Alternative treatments include Retina and Re nova. They contain retinoid acid, which promotes new, healthy skin growth by increasing cell turnover, speeding up exfoliation, and promoting cell turnover. There is clinical research Trusted Source linking retinoids to improvements in skin, including on Black skin.
These ingredients can be extremely drying and make the skin more susceptible to UV rays. If you choose these options, keep in mind that they may take several months or longer to work. Make it a habit to wear sunscreen every day.
Laser treatments and peels
Laser treatment, which uses concentrated light energy, is a more aggressive option for lightening dark spots. Some laser treatments target the pigment, whereas others remove the skin layer by layer. The darkened layers of skin are burned away using this method. There are various types of laser treatment. This solution is more effective than topical products. But, of course, there are risks.
You may experience the following side effects from laser skin lightening:
- swelling
- redness
- tightness
- scarring
- infection
- changes in the skin’s texture
Chemical exfoliates
Chemical exfoliating products typically use a variety of gentle acids to break up dead skin cells, or the skin's top layer. This layer can be removed to reveal healthier, more evenly toned skin beneath. Although many are less irritating than physical exfoliates such as sugar scrubs, they can still cause skin irritation.
These can be bought over the counter, or in stronger forms from a doctor or dermatologist.
It’s important to use chemical exfoliants sparingly, since your skin needs time to rebuild and repair. Using a product more often than intended can lead to irritation or inflammation.
Some skin is more sensitive to different chemical products. If you experience any side effects, discontinue using that product.
For most people, the effects of skin lightening products are minimal when compared with the risks.
Avoiding skin damage in the first place is typically the best solution. Taking care to protect your skin even after you have spots will keep them from worsening.
“Strict sun protection is key in fading dark spots,” said Bank. “Using products with blocking ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide is crucial, otherwise the spots can come back even after removal.”
Contacting a dermatologist will likely steer you toward the options with the best outlook and least risks.
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